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The cabinet before pickup.
Ok sideart. The CP isn't real bad off. It's fairlly complete except for
the G08 monitor, boardset and coinbucket
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Part of my apprehension
was that if I was going to restore a StarTrek it'd either be the sit-down
or the actual convertacab the upright came in from Sega.
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But I couldn't see a
perfectly fine cab be brought to the dump, especially with the beautiful
sideart. Tony offered me this for nothing. I'd be a fool to pass it up.
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As part of the cleanout
of his storage barn, I took both of the ST cabs. The one was in pretty
sad shape to the right. I decided to make that one a Lunar Lander.
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Both cabs are offloaded
and the one to the right will remain a Star Trek.
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Well, I finally came
across a dedicated upright startrek cab complete but non-working. So I
think this one is a keeper. Were going to go with this rather than a converted
Asteroids cabinet.
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Removed the rear access
panels to find a beautifully complete (with G08 monitor) in a fully populated
cabinet. I plugged this in just to find out what I would get. A big mistake.
Don't ever do that. Quick to hit the interlock to cut power I saw a bright
short on the monitors chassie pcb. Good way to fry a monitor in a Star
Trek.
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Just by seeing both ceramic
resistors snapped in half and had been for quite some time, it was obvious
this monitor was never going to work without some work. Completely removed
power from this monitor and will have to go by ear for a while.
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Pretty musty. Ran a vac
through the cabinet. The coin lamps wouldn't even light up. Just from
following the line I could see it leading to the pcb stack. So something
is lacking power. I'll have to tackle the power supply first. I had tried
to remove one pcb from the stack but they are stuck solid. I'm thinking
they each plug into a bus.
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Taking note of the wire
locations before pulling the Power supply out of the cabinet to put on
the bench.
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Removing all phillips
screws that secure the heat sink to the housing. 2 on each side.
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After looking this over
I'm not seeing any problems except some heat. normal for a power supply
of this age.
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Taking a look at the
underside of the power board. Hrm. Someone else has been here before me...
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Transistors look ok.
I haven't learned yet how to test transistors. The underside of the board
looked fine as well.
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Removed the carbon scoring
from the pins with a little sandpaper. I'm getting great voltages out
of this power supply, However the AC in wires get very hot at the connector.
There could well be a problem here.
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At the CPU pcb connector
contacts I'm getting around +5v on almost every contact. Taking note of
the wireing. Apparently on this you could easily plug in the wrong thing.
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Another shot during board
removal. The boards were locked solid in the cage. I had to use alot of
force to get them all out. Even resorted to using plyers taking great
care with a rubber strip on the surface to pull them out.. After they
were removed I then sprayed some silicon lubricant into the upper and
lower sliders of the cage as well as the rear bus board. After this step
when I plugged the boards back in I lost my LED. No longer flashes. but
I do have 5v to the coin lamps. After plugging the boards in the LED would
flash once when flipping the service switch. But now nothing at all. It's
worse than that - She's Dead Jim!
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Pulling the stack out
of the cage for some bench testing.
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Ordered a box of #47
bulbs from Big Daddy. I should have ordered about 3 boxes. They're only
a couple bucks. This will illuminate the Coin inserts at the coin door.
They are bayonet and use less voltage but are fine for brightness and
you don't have to worry about melted plastics from overheating.
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Beginning to build the
rig for Star Trek board repair. I had an extra bus board/cage from one
of the Star Trek conversions. I pulled this and began to build a harness.
The voltages included the standard -5, +5 and +12, but there were two
I wasn't expecting. A -12 and an AC. Come to find out, thanks to William
Boucher. The AC is usually around 3v, but a +5 would work well.
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Harness built and voltages
labeled. Had to find something for my -12 volts.
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I'd recently disposed
of a bunch of old computers, kept the AT power supplies for just this
purpose. I can pull the -12 onto the Star Trek bus and also tap a ground
into the switcher linking it to the switchers ground wires for the boardstack.
This ended up working great.
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After some communication
with Mongo of Klov, there are only 3 required boards plugged into the
busboard for ST:SOS to operate--the CPU, XY boards (with ribbon cable
attached) and the Rom board. Just the bare boards. Nothing else plugged
in to start diagnosing these boards, one at a time. Hrm. Did you see that?
A flashing LED! Without a monitor or sound I couldn't tell what was going
on, but the LED is giving me a blink.
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Driving me nuts not seeing
what's going on. Hooked up the Oscilloscope to the XY outputs of the boards.
Couldn't quite make out an image but it appears there was some animation
going on, things moving from left to right, right to left and spinning.
It honestly looked like an attract mode. Ok, now this is getting intriguing.
Could I honestly have bought a working boardset with this game?
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There's only one real
way I'll know this is working. I need audio. So I found a junk pair of
headphones, sliced the wires and connected them to the audio outputs.
Then I heard it! After applying power, I heard the Star Trek theme. It
lives! Apparently the problem is in the G80 power supply. I was so impressed
and inspired I placed the boardset back in the cabinet. Sure enough the
game would reset occasionally. But it is now responding. It blasted the
shop with the Startrek theme. No coin up but I was able to use the test
switch and actually played Star Trek blind. Onward to the monitor.
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It's just a quick trip
for the boards, I'll probably go ahead and fully restore this cabinet.
it needs it and is deserving of it. I'd replaced the coin microswitches
with stock I had on-hand but it still refused to coin up. I'll need to
figure out why.
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The sideart is in pretty
sorry shape. There's no rescuing this sideart. The Marquee is in great
shape. Control panel overlay not bad. The t-molding all needs replaced
as well as repainting of the cabinet, but I'm unsure of the paint codes
from www.gamestencils.com
it looks a little too red to me. but that could just be the webpage, not
the actual color of the paint after it's mixed?
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A true shame. They don't
make this stuff. Only place I've found that does is www.gameongrafix.com
and I'm thinking it's probably alot smaller than original art. as well
as being in two seperate segments? What's up with that? It's also inkjet
and not screenprinted meaning it probably is alot less durable. However,
were a captive audience and you have to go with what's available.
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Check this out, on both
sides it's like this, the sideart actually was put on from the factory
like this, with this giant sag and dimple. Unless of course -- you know
I never thought of this before, but do you suppose gravity catches up
with cabinets the same as it does us? Hmmm
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Both sides are looking
pretty ratty and the whole cabinet in general is screaming for me to restore
it. I'm like dude - take a number! But seriously I'm considering bumping
this to the head of the line. I guess I could just ask you guys. What
do you think? Should this take head of the line? Give your opinion and
I'll post a yea or nay here from you. The sideart is going to be a problem
- I can sense it even now. The only thing I can think of is to scan in
the artwork from one of the Asteroids conversions which if I recall, was
in much better condition. But even then - who'd print it? And the cabinet
design I think cuts off half the Enterprise.What we need are the original
films. But sadly, which are probably long gone. I'm not sure how much
Sega preserves it's history. But you can always hope for the best and
plan for the worst.
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The bottom of the cabinet
of course is in sad shape. Will need some need leg levellers afterwards
to get it up off the floor.
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Ripped and torn. Sorry
to go on about the sideart but it just sucks being that it's negative
films are probably lost never to be found.
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Definitely have to find
out why this game will not coin up even with replacement switches. The
wires lead directly to the CPU through the harness. However I did find
someone cut and spliced a line to a coin counter in the bottom cashdoor.
Definitely not factory. Over 80 thousand quarters found it's way into
this cabinet. Hmm, that would be $20,000. But it hasn't been counting
for a while with these microswitches the way they are.
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Monitor pulled from cabinet.
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Not too worse for the
wear. At least not on the picture tube business end. No visible burn in.
A very dark screen to be sure.
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Reviewing the condition
of the G08-CBO. Very filthy and a number of electrical tape joints coming
off the paddle boards.
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The red line has been
cut from the yoke to the deflection tube video connector. Wonderful. Then
they routed the line directly to the pcb. This really defeats the purpose
of a connector as you can't separate the deflection board from the yoke
without cutting the line. To make matters even worse they cut it flush
with the connector. but it doesn't stop there. They removed the pin from
the entire male connector. So a new deflection board connector has been
ordered for the yoke. Trying to get that red wire out of the connector
to reuse the molex but it's pretty bad off. May have to just cut all wires
and make a new molex connector to the deflection board.
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Needing a bath and getting
one. Placed in the sink to douse all the grime off with soap and water.
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Board placed on test
bench for a brand new cap kit install. Cleaned up nice.
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This looks very bad.
Apparently I'm not the first one in here.
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This is a mess. Had it
not been for resistors and capacitors placed inline on these jumpers I'd
have reworked the board. But it's hard to say what the previous repair
tech was up to here and I don't want to get in over my head here.
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Originally, I just need
to run this cap kit and get rid of these teepees. Their just flopping
around and have broken joints at the through-hole contacts. Along this
trek I am going to attempt to replace them.
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The hi-voltage unit cleaned
up nicely with a little soap and water and a paint brush.
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Checking voltage from
the power input to the monitor. Yikes! It should be reading around 45v
and I'm getting over 50.
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Reworked the input voltage
to the monitor for 110 volts as opposed to 120. Found this gem of a procedure
from Mongo
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Much better and well
within spec. 45.1v
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Not for the faint
of heart!
After all the boards were removed for
cleaning and restoration, the monitor has been taken off it's wooden
base and taken outside for a bath. First, applying GUNK to remove all
the years of grime, tar and a couple millimeters of dirt/dust, name
it.
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Let the GUNK do it's
thing for a couple of minutes and then for the shower from the garden
hose. BTW, just to prevent anyone from hurting themselves, this monitor
has been discharged long before ANY contact with any bodily parts.. This
will knock you on your ass just for looking at it wrong. Especially when
liquids are involved. Do not work on your monitor before fully discharging
and rechecking discharge. Discharge again before doing anything this insane.
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First time this monitor
has been this clean ranging from a decade to 3 decades.
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Let the G08 sun-dry for
half a day. Very hot day. After all had evaporated, mainly out of the
yoke dimple, brought the unit in and remounted it to wood.
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Capped the HV unit, Deflection
board and the video board with cap kit purchased from Arcadeshop.
Noted the cap kit was labeled 'The Real Bob Roberts'.
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Transistors mounted on
the opposite side from factory install. The methodology is that the Transistors
will actually be cooled better by the onboard fan. Again, borrowed by
Mongo's tips.
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New Transistors installed
on Heat Sinks, unit remounted to chassis. I made the mistake of installing
2n3716's here. DON'T DO IT!
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The wires leading from
the PCB to the paddle boards have been replaced to get rid of the clipped
and solder laden wires wrapped with electrical tape. I didn't have any
brown or white so I had to use yellow 22 awg. Just trying to clean this
up. The last step will be replacement of the teepees - where the heck
are those ceramic resistor replacements I ordered?????
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The last thing for the
night was to inspect all the fuses. One was not fitting it's fuse holder
well at all. It was like, jammed in and bottomed out. I pulled it and
took a closer look. HOLY SMOKES this is supposed to be a 5a fuse - and
it's a 30amp. WTH = replaced with 5a fuse - if it's gonna blow - blow
but don't fry the entire board.
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Parts order finally comes
in for the G80 cap kit, also recieved a new header for the yoke to the
deflection board. This had to be cut down to 4 pins rather than 6. Not
sure how that oversight occured. At any rate, dremel used with cutting
bit.
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This is what this sorry
circuit looked like before the repair. Red wire wrapped from underside
to some electric tape and wrapped wire leading directly to the yoke. Unsoldered
the red wire.
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Placed the new header
in it's correct position.
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Soldered a jumper from
the trace to the lead itself, the pad, the trace, everything was just
gone. I had used a clipped capacitor lead for this.
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Now if I could JUST get
that order in for the teepee replacement.
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Documenting the plug
for the control panel during it's removal from the cabinet.
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Then started removing
the coindoor and cashbox. Taking note of wire positions and how everything
is wired together.
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Grounding straps noted.
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Now-for the G80 power
supply cap kit. I wish I knew why this board was getting so hot. The burn
is on both sides of the board.
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This shouldn't get this
hot. It just sucks running all these fixes and repairs all at the same
time. God knows what I'll get when I hit the power.
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One yoke connector made
to order. 4 pin not 6.
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Picked up a 1/16"
drill bit from Menards. This was as small as I could get. The operation
calls for a 3/64" or #57 bit. The full cap kit procedure and parts
list with links to the parts can be found at www.bittronix.com
with an excellent detail in documentation. Bill's procedure looks alot
cleaner than mine mainly because of the use of the correct bit.
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I cringe while drilling
holes through the original G80 board. I think the main problem, at least
for me has been the caps DO NOT want to come out. The holes are way too
tight and my desoldering iron started acting up getting clogged with the
old solder. So I was running it hotter than I should. You also have to
drill out some holes that are too tight for the fatter diameter cap pins.
As I start out at C15/16 I lost both pads on the trace side. but this
procedure also fixes that problem.
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I am using clipped pins
as through-hole jumpers. After drilling the hole, you then have to score
around it to attain a solderable surface to place the pin through and
solder it connecting the component side negative ground to the (-) pin
of the capacitor.
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In my opinion, this whole
procedure is similar to making sausage. It's ugly, it's messy, it's disgusting,
but the end result is what were looking for. You have to do this for each
and every large cap in the G80. This is probably overkill as I plan to
utilize a switching power supply anyway for the pcb stacks' +5v power
supply, isolating them from any higher voltages of the g80. From what
I understand, the G80 enjoys toasting Star Trek boards with higher voltages.
Thanks to a procedure by Mongo we'll be running that mod later.
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Happ Controls new switching
power supply arrives to replace the G80 +5 v input to the Star Trek boardset.
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Putting on the last Capacitor,
drilling the last hole. Scraping the last solder point. I hope I never
have to do this again. But most of all, after all this work-I hope this
works after I finish! :p
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One last upgrade to the
g80, replacing the 14 pin socket with a new gold pinned socket and voltage
regulator hi precision at U1
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Completed operation on
the g80. I'd had a major problem with an Asteroids chassis transistor
issue, and didn't want to get into another mess of goo with applying new
heat sink compound on brand new transistors again. Asteroids burnt me
out on that. So I'm calling this done.
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Well, maybe not quite.
Time to give some TLC to the case cover. Bead-blasting the old electrolytic
coating for some fresh paint. And we also need to tie in the new switcher
with this unit. That'll happen later after we restore the cabinet.
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Recieved the 20W 3Ohm
5% Ohmite Wirewound through hole resistors (2). As far as I know these
are good replacements for the teepees.
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Resistors mounted to
board and soldered. There was also a ground wire from the neckboard that
gets soldered to one of the legs of the Resistor. Work finished with the
G08 deflection board, at least for now. I'll only know how effective this
is when I apply power and cross my fingers. I might actually film that
when I do.
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2 long screws removed
from upper left portion of the wood securing the cage and transformer
assembly. A 9/16" Bolt removed from bottom of wood support thus allowing
the entire assembly to be removed.
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The inside of the cabinet
after removal of the pcb cage/transformer assembly.
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This assembly is going
to be a project unto itself.
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The reflective cardboard
material being removed from the Marquee lamp assembly. This will have
to be replaced with new. Several staples were used to secure this in place,
which all had to be removed with a screwdriver and a pair of plyers.
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T-Molding removed from
cabinet. Getting ready for sanding.
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Rear end shot of the
cabinet as it gets prepped for sanding.
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I am not sure what this
is. If it was original from factory or just some vendors method of keeping
track where his machines are by some numbering system. Anyone have any
idea? Do your dedicated cabinets have this emblem?
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A sticky, gooey, icky,
mess. After peeling off by hand the sideart on the right side I quickly
found that the adhesive was still active. It stuck to every pore of my
hands. After removing the last of the decal, I then applied Adhesive remover
gel by brush, then used a putty knife to slap it off onto a paper towel.
To finish, I then applied mineral spirits and wiped clean with a cloth.
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After what seemed like
at least 2 hours, man - this coating is really hanging on there. I needed
to go buy some more sandpaper and being the nice sunny day it was, Maggie
wanted me to take her for a walk around the neighborhood, so we folded
up for today. I rotated between orbital, planar and belt sanders. The
belt does the best at removal but you have to be careful it doesn't dig
in too hard. So you want to use it sparingly.
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Side 2, icky gooey mess
removed. This is the result of some 3 hours of sanding. Good God.
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Another 5 hours of sanding
later, side 1 finished.
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The G80 Power supply
being reassembled.
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Relabeled the audio and
power Input/Outputs.
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G80 finished. Crossing
fingers for the day it gets powered up.
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That would make both
sides finished sanding.
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The roof of the game
cabinet is sanded clean.
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Now working on the back.
Figured I'd go ahead and put all the panels on and sand it that way. Going
to have to remove the internal fan.
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removed the 4 screws
and took note that the power input faces to the left side. Removed the
fan and screws and packed them away in a ziplock bag and labeled it's
location.
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Removed the old screening.
Going to have to replace this come time for reassembly.
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Finally got around to
getting the wires out of the old molex connector and pinning the red wire,
getting all wires inserted into the new molex connector. Now the next
guy after me can put a cap kit in without wires leading off everywhere.
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Resistor R633 which is
the one I saw flaming when I initially plugged the game in. A 150R .25W
5%
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R634 also burnt to a
crisp. An 82R .25W 5%
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R734 is looking awfully
brown. I'll go ahead and get some of those ordered as well. Oh no! The
G08 manual doesn't list this resistor...
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Well - the G08 Manual
skips right over R734. I really hate guessing. But if I were to guess,
since 634 is an 82R, then 734 most probably is. Big dummies. Why did they
do this? Well I've got some 82R's on order, I may hold off on replacing
this resistor unless absolutely necessary.
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It really looks like
there should be a pin here rather than just straight soldering it on.
That'd make it a heck of a lot easier to run a cap kit later.
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A view from the backside,
the line comes from the Neckboard to the focus adjust on the G08. This
really should plug and unplug. However apparently after asking some questions,
this should in fact be soldered in place. Lot of voltage passes through
this line.
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Mouser order arrives
with all my resistors previously ordered.
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150R .25W 5% Resistors
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82R .25W 5% Resistors
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Also ordered replacement
resistors as spares and to have on hand for the infamous R29 on the AR
board that always seems to go out. 10R .25W 5% Resistors.
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Replaced Resistors at
R633 and R634. With any luck, this completes the monitor work.
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I'm not real sure about
R726. It has some burn but it's got alot of things hanging off it. I think
I'll leave this alone for now.
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Finished sanding all
4 sides. Ready for Bondo, however it's now time to put full attention
on the bottom of the cabinet.
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Pulled all 13 2"
screws from the bottom of the platform.
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Removed all 4 water soaked
and rotted sidewalls.
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That left the 2 3/4"
pressboard to be removed. Only, they were fastened with staples from the
inner board and glue. This meant I was going to have to power through
this with brute force.
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Both pressboard sections
were removed using a crowbar, hammer and heavy gauge flat screwdriver.
This was muscled all the way through being careful to not damage the inner
ply. I also used a hammer and wedge to remove particles that were fastened
with glue. It was apparent the pressboard was a sacrificial lamb to the
cabinet ply floor. Sanding will need to be applied to clean this up.
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Ran an orbital sander
over the deck of the cabinet. Removed all traces of glue and wood chips
from the previous pressboard material.
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Had to pick up a brand
new sheet of CDX plywood 4x8. Running the 23" cut first. I can get
2 bases off the bottom of this sheet. Just used a power saw with a guide
for this.
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After the base was cut,
the two halves were glued clamped and stapled together. Afterwhich I then
commenced to continuing the bottom edge cut for 1.5" strips to make
up the framing. I then used a miter saw to cut the 45 degree angles to
size.
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Starting from one side,
I then glued each frame to the base and then used a staple gun to secure.
Operated from Clockwise on at that point. On the last piece I had to use
a power sander to shave off some excess so the final piece would fit properly
and snugly. I then used the orbital and planar sanders to smooth out the
CDX ply. This piece is now ready for a temp mount with #10 -2" screws.
We have yet to drill out the nut hole that secures the transformer/boardstack
assembly to the base of the cabinet. The plan is then to permanently use
13 #10-2" screws to secure this. No more glue - I have mercy on the
next guy after me. After painting we will secure 4 leg levellers to the
base.
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Rather than run a marker
down through the inside of the cab and nuthole - I just ran the drill
down through with a small bit. I then punched it out with an 1" Forstner
bit. I believe originally it was a 3/4" hole. I wanted to be sure
and hit that nut.
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Great! Nailed it on the
first try. Brand new 2" phillips headed general purpose screws purchased
from Menards. The 30 year old screws pitched. Fastened the 13 2"
screws to the deck of the cabinet. Base unit now complete.
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Brand new 1 gallon can
of Bondo purchased from Lowes at like around $23.00. Hay - this isn't
a gallon - it's only like almost half full. What is bondo up to here?
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Slapped an initial wad
on the bottom front corner and on a few select spots on the left side
of the cabinet.
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3rd coat is pretty close.
But I may run a 4th coat just to be sure. I'll just have to look it over
before switching to the right side.
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This bottom edge is just
about done, but I'm seeing a portion of it that doesn't look very good
towards the underside.
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Started side 2 today.
Slapped on more bondo and worked on the rear panels. On average it's taking
about 3 applications with sandings in between to complete each side.
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The goop in action. First
coat. This is the rear bottom with a chunk missing. This happens when
you try to move the cabinet on carpet without leg levellers extended and
dampness contributes to it.
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Front of the cabinet
gets a shot or two of bondo. In some areas. The front panel wasn't really
all that bad off, but it looked like some of the bottom edge was starting
to chip a bit.
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I also filled the entire
length of t-molding channel, front and back, with bondo to run a new channel
using a router. I've tried a dremel before with simple wood putty. On
this occastion I chose bondo. Attempted to run the dremel to rechannel
however it was really struggling with a cutting bit to get through the
bondo. Very unlike wood putty and as I went over it time and again, it
just wasn't giving me a very clean cut.
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Bondo is much more powerful
than wood putty, so I decided I needed to to get the right tool for the
job of cutting a new channel. The router.
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I struggled with this,
as I first tried it with cabinet face up. My face, eyes, nose and back
were getting blasted with a blizzard of bondo and wood. I then tried goggles
and I still got pelted in the face. It was to the point I couldn't see
what I was doing. I finally flipped the cabinet on it's sides to do it
the correct way and run along the edge with downward pressure. This photograph
demonstrates the incorrect way to use a router. I also found I had to
remove the base to fully re-route the entire tmolding channel.
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After finishing the routing
I then re-secured the base again. I vaccumed the cabinet out completely,
vaccumed every side, inside and out, then found these divots on the top
of the cabinet. It looks like there was some kind of signage screwed on
top of this cabinet at one time. I applied bondo and sanded to remove
the 4 holes that don't really show up too well in this photograph. yes
it's getting dark. I finished up around 8pm. I am targetting tomorrow
to actuallys shoot the first primer coat. I'd like to be done with all
the bondo tonight.
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Cabinet completely prepped
for painting and ready for a few shots of primer. I wiped her down with
a clean lint free rag to remove any loose particles or dust.
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The humidity's sweet
spot was around 5pm. Any later than that and it begins to creep back up
above 50%. After 50% humidity paint starts to dry strange, and fogs.
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Kiltz primer, 2 coats
applied. I ended up using about 40psi on the sprayer. 20 was just too
fine a mist and was giving too thin a coat. Both rear panels also primed.
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Waiting a tad bit for
the paint to dry up. Still have to get at the base.
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Tipped the cabinet forward
and applied a good heavy coat of primer to the base. I also coated the
entire base unit. Can't hurt.
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Went over the roof of
the cabinet with another coat as well. I did find 2 more signage holes
towards the front that I hadn't seen previously. may take some wood putty
to those. This finished the primer coat. I will see about getting it sanded
however the next coming days are going to be in the 90's.
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Cabinet sanded with 220
grit with a planar sander. Just a light sanding. I decided to just plug
the signage holes with bondo.
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I also found 2 more holes
that shouldn't be there just below the CP. bondo'd, sanded.
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Unsure why, but a chip
had let go on the bottom of the cabinet. Repaired with a single coat of
bondo as I was applying to the other problem areas. Sanded. Swept every
part of the cabinet with a vacuum brush. The primer has been dumped and
sprayer cleaned. Next up will be our black coat. Decided to find a tack
cloth, maybe Menards will have a couple. Didn't find any at Wally world.
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Finally picking up the Sherwin Williams
paint for Star Trek. Paint code is as follows:
Sherwin Williams latex satin
BAC Colorant 0z 32 64 128
W1-White - 6 1 1
B1-Black - 33 - -
R2-Maroon - 8 1 1
Y3-Deep Gold - 16 - -
Quart Ultradeep
A91t00254 640382552
As found from arcadestencils.com
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Went to mix a gallon
of black I'd probably had for a few years, and stuck the stir stick in
the center, and it stuck like mud. Mixing was not improving the consistency.
Had to go to Lowes and pick up some Fresh paint. 1 quart of semi-gloss
latex water based.
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This went on really nice
and smooth.with a pretty decent sheen to it.
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Finished with about 3
coats of black. These went on quickly and easily.
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Cabinet let air dry a
bit longer before it was time to put it away for the day to air-dry.
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Nice smooth coats, you
can see from the reflections that it looks good.
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Inner panels also look
good.
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The following day, it
was time for the Star Trek brown coat. After about 2 applications I completely
ran out of paint. 1 Quart was not enouph.
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It's like the job is
not quite done yet. Either I put it on too heavy, it needs more coats,
or it needs sanded, then coated, but it definitely has a FLAT finish with
very little reflectivity or gleen to it.
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Just not sure what I
did wrong other than running out of paint. I'm definitely going to have
to get some more paint a quart did not work out, at least not at the mixture
I'd sat it for. I used about 8 ounces of flotrol in the mix.
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It is so flat. Not sure
what to do but I'm thinking sanding at 320 or higher and then reapply?
Leaves me scratching my head.
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Ok, well it's kind of
dangerous to sand latex under at least 7 days of drying, so were going
to change things up. Tried a Semi-gloss rather than Satin. Second quart
purchased. Expensive paint at 17.00 per quart.
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It's still not acting
right. I got down to half the second quart before I decided this is just
not working out. Time to go back to what I know works and forget what
others are telling me. Because they are W-R-O-N-G!
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Added 4 ounces of water,
all that remained of the second quart and 4 ounces of Flotrol. Do you
now see the shine starting to appear after only 1 coat?
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Shine beginning to appear.
The spray was so much more ionized, spread so much better, no more morse
code at all. Just nice straight easy coverage. I am not going to buy another
quart to try and unscrew this. I'm going to do what I should have done
initially and bought the gallon. At 2 quarts, the price matched a gallon.
2 quarts MIGHT have worked had I mixed it appropriately to begin with.
However none left over then for any later scuffs or scrape touchups.
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Finally I've wrestled
the beast under control and it's beginning to sparkle. The color is now
setting in pretty deep.
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She's beginning to sparkle
and I have one more day of good weather with which hopefully will be a
final and last coat. But we'll see how it behaves.
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You can't really see
it that well but the front panel is really shining pretty well. This color
is really going on very easy now. So the moral of the story is, when you
know your right - stick by your guns and don't listen to naysayers. Stick
with what works. It would have saved me about 40$ in paint. When spraying
latex always thin it to 4ouces of water per quart and 4 ounces of flotrol
smooths out the rest. It doesn't affect the color in the slightest and
you get good ionized particles at around 45-50 psi of compressed air.
With 3 quarts, there's alot of paint on this cabinet. We'll settle for
an even gallon. Hopefully just one more day of painting.
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The final coats are applied.
Pulled the painters tape and paper. Had a few lessons learned about overlapping
coats as there was a gap between the black and brown coats, with the white
primer showing. Retaped and applied some overlapping coats on the edges.
Important time saving step on my next cabinet paint job.
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The roof of the cabinet
has attained it's luster.
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While I had the black
remixed and in the sprayer I also gave the internals a once over for a
final dressing. If you notice the sidepanel, this was the effect I was
trying to achieve. A nice gleen similar to what you'd find on malimine.
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Got the shine I was looking
for. It really does look terrific. Actually it's probably a bit embellished
as the original cabinet never had this kind of shine even brand new from
the factory
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Through all of this paintjob
the front panel maintained a very good sheen.
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A very good reflective
appearance on all sides.
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And this completes the
cabinet painting procedure. Next up is getting it up off the ground with
some leg levellers and then brand new T-molding to install. Contacted
gameongrafix.com concerning the sideart printing of the provided files.
1 Piece sideart on both sides. Also ordered a CPO with provided files.
The Marquee and bezel both look good.
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Installed all 4 leg levellers,
getting the cabinet up off the ground.
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Installed brand new textured
T-Molding.
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Cabinet is definitely
alot taller now and is starting to take shape, the Tmolding looks really
great.
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It's about to get alot
heavier.
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Restored and cleaned
the Power supply/card cage assembly. Screwed and bolted it into place
inside the cabinet.
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I used the old reflector
as a template to cut new poster board. I also marked the folding points
and folded using a light scoring with an exacto knife on one side.
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Then about 2 coats chrome.
Ended up bringing this inside to dry, it was acting as a sail with a simple
breeze.
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The following day I stapled
the reflector in place in the Marquee housing. I used 3 staples on top
and 3 on the bottom to tack it in place.
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Mounted the Marquee lamp
and it was time to mount the speaker, the screws were the only thing that
needed some touching up. Have to wait overnight for these to dry.
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Finally time to mount
the G80 power supply in place. I am so hoping that cap kit didn't harm
anything.
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Took a look at the old
power plug, again the ground has been snipped off. Have to replace this.
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Brand new receptacle
installed. The wire didn't look too bad off.
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Monitor work finished.
Placed back into cabinet and secured.
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Bezel artwork and plexi
cleaned and placed back into cabinet.
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Now time to get that
speaker fastened. Screws are finally dry.
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Speaker and cover secured
and plugged in.
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Only thing remaining
up here is to place the Marquee however were going to sandblast all the
metal parts and run them to the powdercoaters.
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Beginning disassembly
of the coin door assembly and taking note where everything goes. Didn't
notice this beforehand but the upper door has had the lock edge flange
portion ripped/broken off. It would have taken some force to do that,
these Wico doors appear to be cast not stamped. Not sure why a WICO door
assembly is in use, but it should work fine. I doubt that's original.
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All metal parts finished
bead blasting. There were those such as the coin hopper and security box,
that I just don't have the PSI and CFM pressure to get media that deep
enouph into so I packed up the box of parts and brought them to Custom
coating to have them sandblasted and powdercoated. Total bill will be
$100.00.
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Picking up the parts
from the powdercoater, the coin door frame and both doors were not satisfactory,
with abrasions and areas with no protective coating whatsoever. I opted
to have those parts redone. I was able to pick up half the parts and pay
the bill in full. The other half will be completed by the following week
I was told. In this case, installed the Marquee and brackets. I'm not
paying a hundred dollars for half-assed done work. I'm surprised I have
to be the quality assurance agent in everyone's business. But I didn't
just fall off the boat yesterday. What possessed them to think those parts
were fine, I have no idea.
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Upon pickup of the coindoor
it was revealed to me the result of the work. Broken frame. 400 degree
baking temperatures can do this?? Well that about does it for this portion
of the restoration. It's scrap metal now. Fortunately there was no charge.
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This looks like absolute
crap. It looks like someone is trying really hard to make this look brand
new and doing a poor job of it. It's all scrap. I took a look online to
try and find a replacement. I took a few measurements and I think I found
a suitable replacement. It however is $146.20 plus $10.62 Illinois sales
tax plus $17.16 shipping for a grand total of $173.98 that I didn't anticipate
having to spend.
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I selected UPS ground
but it arrived the very next day. At any rate this is the Suzo-Happ Over/Under
Coin Door assembly with security box. I am really hoping this fits like
a glove.
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All internals are there
except the wiring, which is fine for my purposes.
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An absolutely perfect
fit. Beautiful. Now I can actually get back to working on this cabinet.
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Being the backside of
the coin security box bevels inward and is not a flat surface, I had to
place the original volume/test switch plate in the vice and apply a bend
to it so that this can be mounted on top of the security box. I then sanded,
masked, primed and painted it's surface, as there was some surface rust
that had begun to onset.
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Coin Door wiring portion
of the harness plugged in and run up near the coin door assembly. Rather
than using a staple to hold the wires as was OEM, I used a plastic stay
fastened with a wood screw. I then commenced to extending the wiring using
wire nuts and 18 gauge wire. I made sure the coin doors opening and closing
would accomodate the length of wireing.
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I then rewired the coin
door lamps and actuators. Not going to apply power to test anything however
until I isolate the PCB's from the high voltage. This step will be documented
down below.
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Control Panel clasps
brought in from the shop for a treatment with MAAS metal polish. You can
see the finished clasp on the left in comparison to the original condition.
Overall the clasps weren't too bad off.
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Time to fasten the CP
to the cabinet with the quick connect hinges. Not going to do much restoration
with this if the CP artwork is good to go. The clasps are attached in
the original locations using the same hardware(2 phillips screws).
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I ran the Control Panel
portion of the harness to the front of the cabinet and fastened it with
a plastic stay and a wood screw being sure to leave enouph wiring for
the opening and closing of the CP.
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Plugged in the P10 connector
to the spinners' circuit board.
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And finally it's time
to close the CP and fasten the clasps. Next up we need to attach the cooling
fan to the rear door of the monitor.
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Suzo-Happ switching power
supply readied to place into service providing power to the PCB stack.
Need to make a harness for this puppy. I only intend to use the +5v so
it's a bit of a waste of a good unit, however if it protects the boardstack
it's worth the investment.
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Wire mesh 1/4" purchased
from Menards. Only needed a 4 inch square of it, but had to buy a huge
roll of it to get that.
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Side by side comparison
of 1/4 mesh to original. I'm thinking original may have been half that
size, but this is as close as I could come. The point of it is to keep
fingers out, so it works.
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Stapled mesh into place
using 1/2" staples.
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The fan then installed
properly on the backdoor.
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Last remaining item for
the monitor back door is the plate that the locking bar actually rests
against, securing the back door to the cabinet along with some screws.
This piece was sandblasted, primed and painted.
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Being that I changed out the original
coin door assembly, I'm having to make a different way of securing the
coin counter and have it viewable from within the coin mech area. The
coin cointer actually attaches to this bracket with two small screws.
I placed it into a bench vice, using a hammer to bend the plate.
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I then sandblasted, primed
and painted the plate. It's about at a 45 degree angle. My intention is
to mount this on top of the security coin box. I then attached the counter
to this bracket.
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A small hole is drilled
into the rear of the security coin box and the grounding strap is fastened
to it. I also attached a molex wire stay to the rear of the box to secure
the coin mech harness in place. These have gum backing and you use a wiretie
in securing the harness.
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I then secured the end
of the strap to the control panel using a #10 screw, nut and washers.
This grounding strap ensures the coindoor and control panel assemblies
are grounded, thus no inadvertent shocks from them.
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I then drilled one extra
hole and secured teh coin cointer to the top of the security coin box.
Easy access from the coin door.
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Well, were finally here,
down to the wiring. From transformer to G80 input, pin 1 has a disconnected
wire. This looks like a clean cut and intentional removal. Not sure why
anyone would do this? You can also tell this sucker got hot. I consulted
Mongo on this disconnected wire for his thoughts on it.
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My Amazon and Molex Samples
order arrive 12/02/2011. Started tearing into this right away. I recieved
the female piggyback connectors as well as SOME of the molex order. I
found out that the header I need is not available as a sample and minimum
order is 2400. Hrm. Well I did find them on Mouser, so I ended up ordering
about 10 of them, so they are on their way. I can only go so far with
missing that header I needed desperately.
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Well, going out on a
limb here. I'm thinking this HAS to go to the connector Pin 1. Trimmed
the wire, installed a connector and inserted it into pin 1's socket. I
did manage to get a sample of 20 of the pin connectors from Molex. Nice!
Lets hope I'm right about this and it works out.
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Using the piggybacks,
(I only needed two) I grab some voltage from the transformer to power
the switching power supply.
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I install the AC wiring
and also run an earth ground between the G80 casing and the switching
power supply. For more indepth procedures on this check out Mongo's
complete guide. So now we have power to the switcher.
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I power up the G80 and
thank my lucky stars nothing blows after that awkward Cap replacement
procedure by Biltronix. Were getting a solid 5 volts after some adjustment
to the switcher. We'll need to adjust it again after we make the harness
from the switcher back to the G80's output to the PCB stack. Need that
header badly.
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Finally the package of
Molex connectors arrive from Mouser 12/06/2011. Ready to get this Star
Trek project up and running.
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The size is indeed correct
at .156 pitch. I straightened out 7 of the Ten pins. The 3 on the left
are left bent and will be unsocketed as were not going to use the G80's
+5v and will use the more reliable switching power supplies' +5v.
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Hinge pins are soldered
onto the ends of the header pins. These will plug into another molex connector,
that plugs into the G80 PS. Were going to use the existing -5v, +12v and
-12v as provided by the G80.
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Header pins inserted
into the Molex 10P connector. A tight fit. It'd probably been better to
have a perfect symetry on the pins/hinge pins soldering job.
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But, the end result is
looking good.
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One issue not covered
in Mongo's docs was that the molex connectors have this locking portion
of the mold that needs to be trimmed off.
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Taking a Dremel with
a cutting disk, I sanded it down flat. Test fitted it into the G80. Fits
great now.
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Ok, now for the harness.
Just the 3 +5v lines are going to be used by the switcher. The next (4th)
is a -5v line that we really need to be careful not to short. Lines 5,6,7
are going to be soldered to a ground wire leading to the GND on the switcher.
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Plugging the entire assembly in to the
G80, time to power up the entire thing. The customary Star Trek Tune
comes up but the video is horizontally collapsed. I was going to take
a picture of it, but I then heard a small snap and no longer had video.
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Taking a look, I couldn't
see any smoke, but I smelled a burning. So, the G08 is overheating still,
apparently. Wondering if the brand new deflection transistors both had
like resistors originally. Not sure where the snap came from or what's
wrong with video. Star Trek is running, at least audio is. It's not coining
up properly though. Looking back through 2005, this had the same issue
back then. No coin up. But the reset switch would give free games. Doh
- just looked over the new transistors - 2N3716's. I need 2N6259's. 4
of them at $7.00 a piece. Ah well, if I can get off with just that, I
hope I didn't blow anything up using these. I'd ordered 4 MJ15003G as
standby's but I'm not sure how well those would work.
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The brand new 2N6259's
arrive from Newark. Total cost was 23.55 for 4 of them. I'm going to try
to just remove the Chassis transistors without having to remove the entire
monitor to install them.
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Ok, I pulled the transistor
assembly out, removed the fan. Time to crack her open and take a look.
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Replaced all the 2N3716's.
The transistors looked in very good shape but I guess I'll need to test
them out electronically later.
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I did put some extra
heat sink compound on the new transistors as I installed them. I later
replaced these with MJ15024GOS-ND.
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Taking a look at the
paddle board. She's definitely been burnt. Looks like it may have taken
out a resistor and the transistor looks like it's been popped in half.
We'll see what we've got so far anyhow. I'll have to circle back to this.
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Well the old girls fired
up. The image is very scrunched, but it's at least an image. Most of the
left side of the screen is empty and the image is compressed to the center.
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Turned the lights off.
It's got good color to it. I didn't want to take too much time with that
popped resistor and transistor. Luckily I had both on hand in stock.
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Pulled the paddle board
out for some rework. Replaced the 2N3904 transistor with new and replaced
the 100Ohm resistor. I would have preferred a 1/2w resistor but all I
had were 1/4w.
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Ok, now that that job
is done, I throw the card back in, resolder the paddle board wires, power
it on - to find ...nothing changed at all...
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Ok, so pulled the paddleboard
back out and replaced the other transistor, a 2N3906. Put the card back
in, soldered the wires, power on-
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To find nothing changed...wth?
Maybe the diode is shot on the paddle board? It looks fine though.
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Through Mouser the NTE240's are $4.54
a piece. Wow. The NTE171's are $2.86 a piece. Again, wow! Mongo had
said that the MJE340's are cross-references for the old 2N6558's, which
were a cross reference for the MPSU10's. But I'm not so sure of it.
It'd be nice as they are only .58 cents ea.. Somehow I doubt I'm going
to get off cheaply as that. The entire order would be 6 NTE240's and
4 NTE171's. But as I like to keep stock on hand for the next time, I
would like to order 10 of each, which would be around $70.00 for 20
transistors. This without knowing for sure that it would in fact fix
this issue.
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I'm thinking these stars
are just retrace lines from the brightness level being too high.
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Found resistor R736 fried.
Aha! I said. I replaced it with a 100Ohm 1/4W. Made no difference at all.
Not sure how I missed it but I also found F400 bad fuse. Replaced with
5amp fuse - Made no difference at all. Well hmm...
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Ok, I'm looking at this
concoction. Looks like another 100Ohm 1/4w resistor in line with a ceramic
cap and a diode. Shows some burn on it. But I'll have to put this on the
bench to work on it. I'm thinking that I would like to (especially after
seeing R736) just replace all the transistors. However at the prices I'm
seeing, that's going to be around 70$ just for 10 of each transistor.
Crazy prices.
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| Position |
Original |
Substitute |
| Q600/Q700 |
MPSU60 |
NTE240 |
| Q601/Q701 |
MPSU60 |
NTE240 |
| Q602/Q702 |
MPSU10 |
NTE171 |
| Q603/Q703 |
MPSU10 |
NTE171 |
| Q604/Q704 |
MPSU60 |
NTE240 |
|
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Through some invaluable
input from both kstillin of Klov and William Boucher, different subs were
selected and I placed an order 12/11/11 to digikey for what I hope is
the final fix for the G08.
| 30
of the MPSU60 subs |
| 30
MPSU10 Subs |
| 4
MJ15024GOS-ND 2N6259 subs |
| 10
1.5W-10-ND resistors |
| 60
HS251-ND Heat Sinks |
I'll have more than enouph
extra parts on hand in any event I need to replace anything that needs
it. I only intend to pull this monitor one final time to get it all done.
It's really a PITA assembling and disassembling for more work. So this
is it! Cost of $80.00 before shipping.
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| Position |
Original
|
Substitute |
| Q601/Q701 |
MPSU60 |
MPSW92RLRAGOSCT-ND |
| Q602/Q702 |
MPSU10
|
MPSW42GOS-ND |
|
Q603/Q703
|
MPSU10
|
MPSW42GOS-ND |
|
Q604/Q704
|
MPSU60 |
MPSW92RLRAGOSCT-ND |
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Wanted to be sure I got
these transistors correctly oriented, it'd be really easy to reverse them.
The Emitter is on Pin 1. So this would be the correct orientation as screened
on the PCB. Cooky-cutter after the initial lookup.
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I replaced all of the
deflection transistors. I even replaced Q600 and Q700, which actually
matched up to my replacements however, I ended up having to go back and
remove Q600 and Q700 and put the originals back in as I was getting a
completely black screen. I believe Q600/700 to be power transistors. They
don't need replaced. And the MPSW92's certainly aren't the right transistors
to replace them with. R635 was having a serious heat issue until I put
the original Q600/Q700 back.
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After finishing up I
took some heat sink grease over the tops of the transistors and put on
the new heat sinks. Some of them needed to be pryed a bit with a pair
of needlenose plyers to fit properly. You have to be careful on this step
not to put too much stress on the transistor legs.
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Ok, assembly almost finished.
One last thing to do.
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This resistor at R736
appeared burnt, so I replaced it with a 100Ohm and reattached this hack
assembly.
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After considerable adjusting
of the picture I managed to get this. But it's still not right, it appears
to bloom and move from left to right and the image is really scrunched
down. Something's not right yet. It's playable but I need to put more
work into it. You'll get a better idea from this Youtube
video of it. It acts like it needs a cap kit, but one's already been
run on it.
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Changed out all the transistors
on the Input protection board. (2)2N3904's and (2)2N3906's. Didn't solve
the problem.
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Attempted adjustment
of XY board. Didn't even know these were able to be adjusted, but they
seemed to want to just continue turning without a stop. It didn't seem
to influence the picture quality. Removed old 10uf35v caps at C4/C5 and
C23. Replaced with 10uf25v. No influence.
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Ok, well I've gone about
as far as I can on this. Really blown the budget on trying to get this
worked out. Time to ship it off to someone that knows what they're doing
and has a better chance of targetting the offending component. I shipped
the chassis, paddle boards, Neck board, HV,XY control and timing boards
to Klov's kstillin of Columbia, SC to see if he can nail this on 12/19/11.
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Got a report back today
from kstillin stating he got it. It was a darned diode on the paddle board
and an undervoltage resistor. I'm wondering if that' the R736 I replaced?
I had replaced a 1/2w with a 1/4w.
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Monitor seems to be doing
some beautiful work here and kstillin is responsible for it. I replaced
nearly every component on this monitor and was really hoping to get this
up and running myself but in the end I needed an old pro to make it all
work. Thanks Kerry.
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The monitor chassis,
HV, paddleboards, the whole lot are being shipped back to me. Total repair
was a bargain. He even included a youtube
video of it operating.
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Package arrives at my
doorstep 1/25/2012 from kstillin. Hastily bring it inside to warm up over
the afternoon.
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Later on that evening,
I installed the HV, deflection board, interconnect, XY boards- pretty
much everything but the tube. After adjusting video outputs to the point
of bottom wrapping, a cold start finds the 'Credits' at the bottom of
the screen squished.
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However after about a
minute it then begins to come into shape. But there is a good inch or
two gap to the bottom of the tube and I can't seem to adjust it further
down without it starting to wrap.
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The image is ALOT more
stable and looks nice in a darkly lit room. Playable however I'd still
like to get that picture 'just right'. Not sure what is causing this.
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A couple weeks later
I powered it up and it seems to be getting worse. Now the image is not
just an inch or two from the bottom, but up nearly to the center of the
screen.
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Seems I got a different
input protection board back from kstillin, so I went ahead and recapped
and replaced all the transistors.
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I also took note that
caps 1 and 3 really should be facing opposite, with their negative polarity
leads leading to the negative line. But apparently that's not the case
but I'm not told what the explanation of this is. In any event, the recap
and retrans didn't make any difference at all.
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So I removed the IP board
entirely in the process of elimination. This is a shot without the IP,
image still cut off.
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Got a little wave at
the bottom of the image too. I have no idea what's causing this, but it's
not the IP board.
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Ok, well a while back
Bill Boucher messaged me about the docs for the G08. the docs specified
that Q600 and Q700 were MPSW92's. This is quite false and incorrect. In
fact they are MPSU07's. Trying to track down a source for them as I never
did replace those parts. Maybe that's causing this problem?
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Bill said I could replace
them with MPSU10's. I found an equivalent MPSW42GOS-ND
that I replaced the 07's with. Seems to be working
well.
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I also did some reading
and found that the Zanen cap kit's replacement cap for C401 was a tad
lower than it should be at 1000uf50v. To run cooler and be a better replacement
part, a 1000uf160v was ordered and installed. Alas however none of these
changes fixed the screen overlapping and waving at the bottom.
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Well I tore back into
the monitor. Figuring the only thing I haven't replaced enmasse or haven't
spent much time with is the paddle boards. I replaced all the 1N914's.
I replaced both 2N3904's and 2N3906's. I replaced a 100Ohm 1/4w resistor
again. I reversed the paddle boards at kstillins advice. Put everything
back in place and BINGO! THIS MONITOR FINALLY IS 100%.
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Well, at least I think
it is. What is with the blue and red being offset like this on the score?
It also does this on the ships on screen. Making it look like there are
a pair of ships instead of just one. Is there something that controls
this? Is this normal?
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Apparently what I'm seeing
is a problem with monitor convergeance. Trying to adjust the rings to
get everything lined up right, but not having a load of success.
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Ah, I think I see what
the problem is. I'm missing one of those magnetic strips I believe. Going
to have to see where those can be bought from.
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The correct settings
for this Star Trek. I had the blue switches practically opposite beforehand.
Thanks to demogo of Klov for the correct settings.
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The Star Trek project
is now coining up correctly. Red/White/Green on one side and Blue/Yellow/Green
on the other. Crimp wire nuts and wire-ties complete this aspect.
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I also removed the screw
and just used a double adhesive wire stay on the inside of the front panel
to retain the coin-door portion of the harness.
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These bulbs are way too
dim. Going to have to order some decent bulbs.
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Picked up some convergeance
strips as made by joeyoravec of Klov. Maybe these will straighten out
the image on the monitor, if I could get the monitor back up to snuff
again. For some odd reason after 3 days, the G08 went all hokey again.
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After about 3 days, the
monitor then began blooming again and waving. I was like OMG - not again.
I took the chassis back out and onto the bench. Found a black wire with
a crimped end that had no home. Well that would explain it I guess. The
monitor ground was not seated firmly and was intermittently grounding.
I applied some pressure with a fingernail to the pins to pull them out,
then stuck it in - and it holds nice and tight. I just need to figure
a good way to hold that input protection board to the monitors back metal
bar now without danger of it grounding and this thing is about ready to
put the back door on.
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Artwork arrives from
ThisOldGame as part of a greater package 05/10/2012. Total $125.00 plus
shipping.
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RATS!! This is the wrong
artwork. This is for a Sega Convert-a-cab. My cabinet is a Dedicated.
Rich contacted.
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